Out of Duc Tho with no regrets, I put on twenty-four miles before pulling off in an upscale town for refueling which included yogurt, juice and chocolate wafers. With s mango and canned ham for the road, I moved on. Riding fifty-seven miles on route 1 was a pleasure for once. A few hundred miles south, the madness of traffic has tapered off to a very sane level. Arriving in Ky Anh, I found a hotel right off, cleaned up and set out for chow. Out the door, I spotted a modern store across the main boulevard. Once across the street, I made a rare find, a supermarket which included a McDonalds of sorts. I was in heaven with shopping card searching out cheese, French bread, yogart, honey....absolutely wonderful.and I could pay with a credit card, no less.
Customers curious about me spoke to me in English. I had disovered an upscale Vietnamese clientele. Shamelessly, I indulged in fast food of a fish sandwich, fries and an orange soda.....delightful! Back at the room, I went further having a yogart, cheese and bread. After taking in a Batman movie and writing two posting, it was lights outs.
Saturday, March 16, 2019
So I thought I was a rock star
Usual drill, putting everything in the appropriate pannier, double check the room, attach everything to the bike, dial up the new route and pedal off toward my next destination. Nine o’clock came and Do Lu Ong was a thing of the past. A misty day, I rode along cranking off the Kilometers. Coming up to a large memorial of some sort, I saw a long line a students crossing the street to this memorial. Curious about what it was all about, I pedaled up a granite ramp and rode towards these large granite depictions of war hero’s marching innto battle with arms at the ready very typical of Soviet architecture. No sooner had I scanned the memorial than the student spotted me. They converged on me like I was Mike Jagger. Total surrounded me, they were excitedly talking in Vietnamese. A girl and boy started speaking English to me while the others wanted to shake my hand. Questions and answers by the dozen followed. My age surprised them, saying that their fathers were much young and could do what I was doing. I encourage them not smoke, ride their bicycles not their motorbikes, work hard in school and come to America. Everyone wanted to be in a picture with me. It was a scene like no other. As I left they were waving and shouting good bye. What an experience that I will never forget.
Moving on with the goal of my reaching Duc Tho, the sky opened up into a nasty misty rain. Duc Tho seemed elusive and I was wet and tired. A nothing town eventually came into site where I prayed there was a hotel. With the usual ride up and down the street trying to decipher the Vietnamese directions, I finally found hotel down a dirt drive way in back the Main Street mom and pop third world stores. It faced rice paddies but for all its newness, the room was stark, stone mattress and one bare light bulb to light the room. Not in a position to be fussy, I sucked it up. However, nothing like a hot shower to bring me back to life. After searching out a meal of noodle soup filled with whatever, I called it a night. Another day to chock up to adventure.
Moving on with the goal of my reaching Duc Tho, the sky opened up into a nasty misty rain. Duc Tho seemed elusive and I was wet and tired. A nothing town eventually came into site where I prayed there was a hotel. With the usual ride up and down the street trying to decipher the Vietnamese directions, I finally found hotel down a dirt drive way in back the Main Street mom and pop third world stores. It faced rice paddies but for all its newness, the room was stark, stone mattress and one bare light bulb to light the room. Not in a position to be fussy, I sucked it up. However, nothing like a hot shower to bring me back to life. After searching out a meal of noodle soup filled with whatever, I called it a night. Another day to chock up to adventure.
Friday, March 15, 2019
A good day in the countryside
My feet clicked into the pedals at 8:45 out of Thai Hoa. My requirements for a hotel is it be clean and have a hot shower. Last night’s hotel was the best of the bunch. The Madame who ran the place kept it up to snuff. The bathrooms are the deciding factor for me. Adding to the stay, the Madame was very attentive, bowl and silverware when I needed them and a gift of two oranges. Her patronizing manorism and long dress suggested something than what she was. Of course, I presumed innocence.
The ride to Do Lu Ong was one of my best rides, a few climbs but the countryside was what I had envisioned Vietnam to be. Rice fields everywhere with mountains in the periphery and interesting topography interspersed amongst the rice paddies. Cattle in the road, one pulling a cart with an ancient woman aboard and the farming women wearing the classic Asian shallow-pointed reed hats.
As I arrived Do Lu Ong, it was in full swing, chaotic traffic and blaring horns. The town is a blend of classic small open front stores and modern storied huilding with interesting designs. My hotel was in the latter with a great view of the town center intersection. My room abutted a third store patio with a stone lava fountain. The room did the job but the mattress is equivalent to a marble slab. My inflatable mattress has developed a slow leak somewhere. making it less than effective.
Finding a suitable eatery is always the challenge. Few are inviting and the food is filling but not what I would order at home. Chopsticks, the small plastic chairs, low tables and harsh lighting addto that third world ambiance. Fortunately, I found a Korean restaurant for lunch where shoes come off at the door and you sat on a floor cushion. The food was excellent. For dinner it was across the street to a typical mom and pop place with very basic low tables, plastic chairs and third world worn down look. The food was good but more importantly I met a guy who was a combination police and fireman. His English was decent and we had a good talk about both our cultures. He would like to visit the US but can’t afford it. After exchanging emails and declining a passenger ride in his motorbike, I hoofed back to my room for a margin sleep on my concrete mattress. Tomorrow I head south to Duc Tho.
The ride to Do Lu Ong was one of my best rides, a few climbs but the countryside was what I had envisioned Vietnam to be. Rice fields everywhere with mountains in the periphery and interesting topography interspersed amongst the rice paddies. Cattle in the road, one pulling a cart with an ancient woman aboard and the farming women wearing the classic Asian shallow-pointed reed hats.
As I arrived Do Lu Ong, it was in full swing, chaotic traffic and blaring horns. The town is a blend of classic small open front stores and modern storied huilding with interesting designs. My hotel was in the latter with a great view of the town center intersection. My room abutted a third store patio with a stone lava fountain. The room did the job but the mattress is equivalent to a marble slab. My inflatable mattress has developed a slow leak somewhere. making it less than effective.
Finding a suitable eatery is always the challenge. Few are inviting and the food is filling but not what I would order at home. Chopsticks, the small plastic chairs, low tables and harsh lighting addto that third world ambiance. Fortunately, I found a Korean restaurant for lunch where shoes come off at the door and you sat on a floor cushion. The food was excellent. For dinner it was across the street to a typical mom and pop place with very basic low tables, plastic chairs and third world worn down look. The food was good but more importantly I met a guy who was a combination police and fireman. His English was decent and we had a good talk about both our cultures. He would like to visit the US but can’t afford it. After exchanging emails and declining a passenger ride in his motorbike, I hoofed back to my room for a margin sleep on my concrete mattress. Tomorrow I head south to Duc Tho.
Wednesday, March 13, 2019
Easy ride, nice day
Rolled out of Yen Cat at. 9:30 leaving my negative four start hotel in my rear view mirror. Traveling south on the Ho Chi Ming Route 15 did have the large hills I expected, at least no walkers, (pushing my bike up a hill). One observation along the way, Vietnam is not lacking for kids, They are everywhere. In fact, the whole population is young; very few old people. One other interesting observation, for two days in a row, I have come across groups of prisons in green and white striped suits, escorted by two guards, one with a rifle slung over his shoulder. One group was building a concrete block wall, the other was doing road work. Being as discreet as possible, I took a few pictures. As a rolled by I cheerfully said hello to the guards and prisoners. All of them were very enthusiastic in return. I haven’t seem a prisoner work detail since I was eleven down in Atlanta. Cuba and Vietnam should use them to pick all the litter and trash. It is everywhere. Some places are fairly well cleaned up but that is the acception. Where local farmers plant their gardens inches away from the road, the trash
is picked up. Out in the countryside it isn’t such a problem. In fact, when I was watching a Vietnamese television talk show, I decipher the topic; it was about the litter problem.
Near the end of my ride, I passed a grammar school which was letting out. As usual, the kids enjoyed saying hello. However, for two days running, one boy each day, about ten years old, hailed me to stop, then rode after me on their bikes. I was amazed at their tenacity. On one speed bikes, they climbed hills that I needed my granny gear to crest. Today, I motioned for the kid (Ho) to catch up as I slowed up a bit. He repeated several times, “ I don’t speak English” but seemed interested in learning. After the basics of learning his name and age, I pointed at things and give him tmy name name and age. He repeated after me The words I had for various objects we passed and I enthusiastically praised him. He caught on quickly and we were both really into it. It was fun. Finally I stopped him for a picture. Another mile down the road, a motorbike pulled up and s teenager indicated to me that he was Ho’s brother. It was apparent he was in trouble for not coming home on time. I rode on leaving Ho behind. He will probably never forget riding with the American on the fancy bike, learning English. It was nice experience which I won’t forget either. A mile further down the road I arrived at Thai Hoa. A group of young guys gathered around a road side table gave me directions to a nice hotel in the center of town. Unlike yesterday’s hotel, this place was well kept. A Madame-ish woman greeted me and show me the room. Last night was $15, tonight $12.50 (250.000 Dong). On her recommendation, I had a late lunch a few storefronts down. Later I walked down the wide bussling street to see what was happening. Motorbike stores everywhere and a collection other small stores selling anything from iPhones to clothing. After having an expresso at a cafe, then buying more fruit and indulging myself with a pastry, I headed back. Dinner followed several hours later. This time at a place down a side alley hehind the main drag. What a struggle it is trying to order something that is familiar. At least back at the hotel, the Madame was very helpful and seemed to catch on to whatever I needed. She even bestowed upon me two oranges. Tomorrow it is forty-two miles due south to Do lu ong.
is picked up. Out in the countryside it isn’t such a problem. In fact, when I was watching a Vietnamese television talk show, I decipher the topic; it was about the litter problem.
Near the end of my ride, I passed a grammar school which was letting out. As usual, the kids enjoyed saying hello. However, for two days running, one boy each day, about ten years old, hailed me to stop, then rode after me on their bikes. I was amazed at their tenacity. On one speed bikes, they climbed hills that I needed my granny gear to crest. Today, I motioned for the kid (Ho) to catch up as I slowed up a bit. He repeated several times, “ I don’t speak English” but seemed interested in learning. After the basics of learning his name and age, I pointed at things and give him tmy name name and age. He repeated after me The words I had for various objects we passed and I enthusiastically praised him. He caught on quickly and we were both really into it. It was fun. Finally I stopped him for a picture. Another mile down the road, a motorbike pulled up and s teenager indicated to me that he was Ho’s brother. It was apparent he was in trouble for not coming home on time. I rode on leaving Ho behind. He will probably never forget riding with the American on the fancy bike, learning English. It was nice experience which I won’t forget either. A mile further down the road I arrived at Thai Hoa. A group of young guys gathered around a road side table gave me directions to a nice hotel in the center of town. Unlike yesterday’s hotel, this place was well kept. A Madame-ish woman greeted me and show me the room. Last night was $15, tonight $12.50 (250.000 Dong). On her recommendation, I had a late lunch a few storefronts down. Later I walked down the wide bussling street to see what was happening. Motorbike stores everywhere and a collection other small stores selling anything from iPhones to clothing. After having an expresso at a cafe, then buying more fruit and indulging myself with a pastry, I headed back. Dinner followed several hours later. This time at a place down a side alley hehind the main drag. What a struggle it is trying to order something that is familiar. At least back at the hotel, the Madame was very helpful and seemed to catch on to whatever I needed. She even bestowed upon me two oranges. Tomorrow it is forty-two miles due south to Do lu ong.
Tuesday, March 12, 2019
Hills but very light traffic
I left Thành Hoa and headed west and within a few miles the traffic began to thin out. The drivers pass each other with abandon. Twice, I had to pull off onto the dirt to allow oncoming buses room to pass. Only a thirty-five mile ride to the Ho Chi Ming Road. About halfway there the topography became very scenic and the hills steeper. No one is a fan of hills but my bike is geared for them. Anything but the traffic of route 1. There were uniformed school children along the way alway enthusiastically call out HELLO. In general people spot me and cheerfully greet me. Others look at me with curiously stare.
Only one hill I had to dismount but it was worth it. Picture time for beautiful hills and mountains to black long horned cattle being sheparded down the road by a woman wearing the pointed cane hat, very Asian. Anyways, I arrived at the Hi Chi Ming Road thinking I had arrive at Yen Cat. There was absolutely nothing there but a small open market. For a good ten minutes I thought I was up a creek and would need to bike another thirty miles. With my transaction app, finally I figured out that I needed to ride on the HCM road a few miles south. Praise the lord! I had this happen to me in Idaho where I ended up climbing twomore mountains to get a place where I could stay for the night. It was not fun. Anyways, the town was wall to wall little shops with a few modern upscale buildings selling motorbikes and other first world items. After slowly cruising down the main drag, my attention shifted to finding a place for the night. I saw a huge sign for a hotel ride into town but couldn’t find it to save myself. Asking for help was an act of futility. A few places were pointed out to me but ones I check out were a class A dumps. So where was the hotel advertised on the road? After traveling several miles in the wrong direction, a guy at one of the dump motels used his translation app and got me going in the right direction. Upon arrival to what I thought would a decent place turned out to be a nice place thirty years ago. No time to be choosy, I picked the best room. With some investment this place could be a three star hotel. Fancy lobby, high ceilings, well designed entrance with a artistic fountain with a restaurant (closed) and a large outdoor tiki bar; the elements are in place but the investors have yet to arrive.
Had anyone spoke English, finding this place would have been a cake walk. Seeing a bunch of grammar school kids I asked if anyone spoke English. They hadn’t a clue as to what I was saying. With a large portion of the world using English as an international language, particularly the developed countries, you would think Vietnam would get on the band wagon. It will just slow up their development. I keep forgeting this is a communist country and they can be stubbornly backwards in their thinking.
Cleaning up, including a properly functioning heat on demand shower, I sauntered down the road and found a hole in the wall where locals were eating (a good sign)and had myself some stir fried rice with meat and some rice noodles soup with beef. Two beers helped. For the road, I picked several oranges and a mango at a local open front store, all for $1.25. Fruit is always one of my cravings when I am on the road, something very quenching about eating fruit.
Back at the hotel, it was nap time followed by two movies on an English speaking station. HBO for free, go figure. Also, at $3/minute I almost solved a cash transfer problem which will allow me to get more Vietnamese Dong. With an eleven hour time zone difference, my window of opportunity is 9;00 to about 10:30 when I pass out. My mainland phone is on call forwarding so I won’t rack up a huge phone bill. Turning it off to talk to the bank is frustrating because they put you on hold, then you speak with someone from India!
Tomorrow I ride south to Thái Hao.
Only one hill I had to dismount but it was worth it. Picture time for beautiful hills and mountains to black long horned cattle being sheparded down the road by a woman wearing the pointed cane hat, very Asian. Anyways, I arrived at the Hi Chi Ming Road thinking I had arrive at Yen Cat. There was absolutely nothing there but a small open market. For a good ten minutes I thought I was up a creek and would need to bike another thirty miles. With my transaction app, finally I figured out that I needed to ride on the HCM road a few miles south. Praise the lord! I had this happen to me in Idaho where I ended up climbing twomore mountains to get a place where I could stay for the night. It was not fun. Anyways, the town was wall to wall little shops with a few modern upscale buildings selling motorbikes and other first world items. After slowly cruising down the main drag, my attention shifted to finding a place for the night. I saw a huge sign for a hotel ride into town but couldn’t find it to save myself. Asking for help was an act of futility. A few places were pointed out to me but ones I check out were a class A dumps. So where was the hotel advertised on the road? After traveling several miles in the wrong direction, a guy at one of the dump motels used his translation app and got me going in the right direction. Upon arrival to what I thought would a decent place turned out to be a nice place thirty years ago. No time to be choosy, I picked the best room. With some investment this place could be a three star hotel. Fancy lobby, high ceilings, well designed entrance with a artistic fountain with a restaurant (closed) and a large outdoor tiki bar; the elements are in place but the investors have yet to arrive.
Had anyone spoke English, finding this place would have been a cake walk. Seeing a bunch of grammar school kids I asked if anyone spoke English. They hadn’t a clue as to what I was saying. With a large portion of the world using English as an international language, particularly the developed countries, you would think Vietnam would get on the band wagon. It will just slow up their development. I keep forgeting this is a communist country and they can be stubbornly backwards in their thinking.
Cleaning up, including a properly functioning heat on demand shower, I sauntered down the road and found a hole in the wall where locals were eating (a good sign)and had myself some stir fried rice with meat and some rice noodles soup with beef. Two beers helped. For the road, I picked several oranges and a mango at a local open front store, all for $1.25. Fruit is always one of my cravings when I am on the road, something very quenching about eating fruit.
Back at the hotel, it was nap time followed by two movies on an English speaking station. HBO for free, go figure. Also, at $3/minute I almost solved a cash transfer problem which will allow me to get more Vietnamese Dong. With an eleven hour time zone difference, my window of opportunity is 9;00 to about 10:30 when I pass out. My mainland phone is on call forwarding so I won’t rack up a huge phone bill. Turning it off to talk to the bank is frustrating because they put you on hold, then you speak with someone from India!
Tomorrow I ride south to Thái Hao.
Monday, March 11, 2019
A day to catch up, another flat
Upon arrival in Thành Bao my bike was covered in mud, my bags equally a mess and my legs covered and pants covered with grease and dirt. I had a few stares as I walked in the hotel but I was too tired to care. Once checked in, I began the debunking followed by dinner and a deep sleep. The ride on route 1 was stressful compounded by my diminished energy level. The next, a couple of essential things needed doing. With almost no hotels and restaurants accepting credit cards, my reserve of Vietnamese dong was dwindling. Chancing the ATM the city center, I was able on my second try get three million Dong ($140). Now, how to transfer funds at home to my credit card checking accounts. Hopefully my bank apps will work. At home, my S.O., Kate, has all my pertinent information. With some hoops to jump, we should be able to get the transfers worked out. In the future I will try to use hotels that accept credit cards. The backwater places are a problem. The trick here is when the hotel listed online says that no credit card is required to reserve the room, that means the hotel does not accept credit card. The communists are still behind the curve here.
Next, clean the bike. With a bucket and rag in hand, I began the task and was stunned to find I had another flat tire. Do I need this aggravation? The guy behind the hotel counter directed to a bike shop a few blocks down. The puncture was a result of a tiny wire protruding on the inside of the tire. Everything was going fine until he couldn’t locate the proper tube size. He even drove off on his motorbike in search of one. No luck. He ended up patching the old tube. I have never resort to patching, instead always buying new tubes. The tire seems to be holding. I saved the other tube which needs patching as well as another tube slightly different in save which might save me. I will be stopping at every bike store in search of the right size tube.
With route 1 being a jungle of trucks, cars, buses and motorbikes all blasting their horns, I have decided to ride across a narrow part of Vietnam from Thành Boa west to Dong Tau. The national park I will be riding through is beautiful. More hills but anything is better than Route 1. Pray that my rear tire holds up.
Wrapping up the day, two women I met, here on maternity health research, one Vietnamese and one a mixture of French, German and Vietnamese ( Marianne and Von/Van) and I went out for dinner. With no one speaking English, I have felt somewhat isolated in a strange country. It was good to speak English without resorting to my translation app and sign language.
Next, clean the bike. With a bucket and rag in hand, I began the task and was stunned to find I had another flat tire. Do I need this aggravation? The guy behind the hotel counter directed to a bike shop a few blocks down. The puncture was a result of a tiny wire protruding on the inside of the tire. Everything was going fine until he couldn’t locate the proper tube size. He even drove off on his motorbike in search of one. No luck. He ended up patching the old tube. I have never resort to patching, instead always buying new tubes. The tire seems to be holding. I saved the other tube which needs patching as well as another tube slightly different in save which might save me. I will be stopping at every bike store in search of the right size tube.
With route 1 being a jungle of trucks, cars, buses and motorbikes all blasting their horns, I have decided to ride across a narrow part of Vietnam from Thành Boa west to Dong Tau. The national park I will be riding through is beautiful. More hills but anything is better than Route 1. Pray that my rear tire holds up.
Wrapping up the day, two women I met, here on maternity health research, one Vietnamese and one a mixture of French, German and Vietnamese ( Marianne and Von/Van) and I went out for dinner. With no one speaking English, I have felt somewhat isolated in a strange country. It was good to speak English without resorting to my translation app and sign language.
Sunday, March 10, 2019
First flat tire
I pushed off at 8:30 from Vinh Binh and was making decent progress on route 1, the country’s main artery thus a heavily traveled road. Just as I met a fellow touring bicyclist, from Belgium, I had a flat tire. Super bummer. The Belgium hung around for a few minutes and seeing that I was ok moved on. I could have used the company seeing as no one speaks English. Such is life. With all the wet dirt on the road, my bike was a filthy mess. Fixing a flat is a major production, remove all the bags, remove the rear wheel complicated by the derailleur and struggle getting the tire off the rim. Everyone has a bike in Vietnam; two men were there shortly to lend a hand. My previous tires were much large, equipped with heavy duty inner tubes. Feeling that these tires and weight of the inner tube was created too much drag, I switched over to a narrower tire with the standard tube. The new tires have a pretective later to help prevent flats, hence the are called “flatless”. This repair took an hour and a half out of my day I will never get back. This included back tracking three miles to buy two additional tubes in case I get another flat.
Today I had been dragging a bit. As well, the hills became mire frequent. Four days on the road, putting in two sixty-five miles was not the proper way to get into the groove. For my Florida ride I start off at thirty-three miles. Another problem with being on main with the never ending blast of air horns from buses and trucks. The motorbikes are totally fearless and everywhere, dodging in and out between the four wheel vehicles. I witnessed my first accident. A car turn left and the motorbike t-boned the car, no one was hurt. Amazely, the car never stopped.. Later in the day, a large truck was stopped in the middle of the lane and behind it was a pile stuff that once attached to a bicycle or motorbike. The two wheel was not present but it was fairly obvious what happened. Needless to say, I am ever on guard and keep to the right. My flagged attached to the rear rack protruding put to the left and my rear view mirror attached to my glasses are absolutely essential to my safely on the road. Caution operative safety tip.
Upon arrival in Thành Hoa, a major city, I went through my usual drill and found a nice coffee shop to decompress in and find a hotel. Last night I did some homework so I know where I was staying. Feeling a bit burned out, I made the decision to stay two night to rest up. Wash my clothes, clean the bike and rest up. Four days straight on the road in this country is work out; not as tough as Cuba but close. One of the issues I need to deal with is getting more Vietnamese currency (the Dong). Everything from food to lodging is super cheap but few use credit cards. Cash is running low. Hopefully one of my credit cards with the necessary pin will work on an ATM. You never know in a third world country.
Tomorrow my strategy will be find secondary roads where the constant noise from trucks and cars will be less. Seeing the blue sky is another factor. Everyone wears masked and I suspect pollution is a major contributor. Like China, Vietnam is rapidly developing with the resulting pollution. Perhaps I should buy a mask like the natives do.
Today I had been dragging a bit. As well, the hills became mire frequent. Four days on the road, putting in two sixty-five miles was not the proper way to get into the groove. For my Florida ride I start off at thirty-three miles. Another problem with being on main with the never ending blast of air horns from buses and trucks. The motorbikes are totally fearless and everywhere, dodging in and out between the four wheel vehicles. I witnessed my first accident. A car turn left and the motorbike t-boned the car, no one was hurt. Amazely, the car never stopped.. Later in the day, a large truck was stopped in the middle of the lane and behind it was a pile stuff that once attached to a bicycle or motorbike. The two wheel was not present but it was fairly obvious what happened. Needless to say, I am ever on guard and keep to the right. My flagged attached to the rear rack protruding put to the left and my rear view mirror attached to my glasses are absolutely essential to my safely on the road. Caution operative safety tip.
Upon arrival in Thành Hoa, a major city, I went through my usual drill and found a nice coffee shop to decompress in and find a hotel. Last night I did some homework so I know where I was staying. Feeling a bit burned out, I made the decision to stay two night to rest up. Wash my clothes, clean the bike and rest up. Four days straight on the road in this country is work out; not as tough as Cuba but close. One of the issues I need to deal with is getting more Vietnamese currency (the Dong). Everything from food to lodging is super cheap but few use credit cards. Cash is running low. Hopefully one of my credit cards with the necessary pin will work on an ATM. You never know in a third world country.
Tomorrow my strategy will be find secondary roads where the constant noise from trucks and cars will be less. Seeing the blue sky is another factor. Everyone wears masked and I suspect pollution is a major contributor. Like China, Vietnam is rapidly developing with the resulting pollution. Perhaps I should buy a mask like the natives do.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)