7:15 I was peddling out of Da Nang east then south to China Beach. Wayne Carlson, a Vietnam veteran, asked me to bring him some sand from this beach. Wayne psssed away a two months ago but I am still bring him the sand as I did with Omaha beach in France. Along the way, I passed numerous luxury resorts on both sides of the road, mostly gated. A lot of money flowing into these resorts which is bring big money from all over the world. What is odd is how cut off these places are from the Vietnamese culture and people. These resorts could be anywhere, it would make no difference which country.
A short break after three hours by an upscale amusement park fueled me up for the second half of the ride. Mile after mile of beach scrub landscape without a person or building in site. I was staring down the vanishing line for over two hours. The road was modern and wide with evidence of construction for another two lanes. The plans are big for this area. It was nice to arrive in Tam ky after forty-six miles of heat and humidity. My first hotel, found online, was below my standard so I found another hotel just down the road which worked though twice the price, twenty-two dollars. The road leading to hotel tripled in width where it appeared there was a military installation. The guards at the main gate shouldering machine guns was a clue. Probably a military parade review area. The city isn’t that big but there is some military significance to it. The progress south continues but I need to get off earlier to minimize the exposure to the heat and humidity. Breakfast is served starting at 5:30.
Saturday, March 23, 2019
Friday, March 22, 2019
Hooked up my USB port for recharging
Up at 7:00 and on the back of a motorbike at 8:00. Huy’s (We) grandfather has a slick carbon fiber racing bike and one awesome electronic horn mounted on it. I wanted one. He drove me over to the bike shop to buy one. Ballistic sound that you won’t ignore. More importantly, riding on the back of a motorbike in Vietnamese traffic is one of those life altering experiences. Weaving through intersections jammed with traffic going in all directions. When to yield and not to yield, it is instinctual with these drivers. Made it back alive, hooked up the horn and rode to the supermarket to stock up on road food. If you are looking for the oranges, they are green.
With one day to scope out Da Nang, I rode to the waterfront and saw the dragon bridge and another modern suspension bridge which was a real marvel. Wandered from side street to side street, taking in all the shops, restaurants and people, a mixture of old and new worlds. Everyone sits on these plastic chairs half the size of ours. Ended up a modern coffee shop on the waterfront and chilled for an hour with two peach ice tea lattes. Later at my back alley pocket hotel, I blacked out for an hour or so before experiencing another motorbike ride to buy a new headset. Huy drove, I leaned with the curves. He translated and I bought. With everything taken care of, I walked
a local seafood restaurant recommended by Huy. Shrimp four inches long sautéed in garlic and butter. Try shelling and eating them with chopsticks. The rice/veggies and two beers was perfect with the monster garlic shrimp. Back at the hotel, I met more of Huy’s family, friended him on Facebook, took pictures and learned more about how his father and aunt had used their land to build a new hotel. Central to town and only 250,000 Dong, brand new building, a real find. Several people are spending up to six months there? $300/month, I could do this! Tomorrow I am heading south on flat terrain.
With one day to scope out Da Nang, I rode to the waterfront and saw the dragon bridge and another modern suspension bridge which was a real marvel. Wandered from side street to side street, taking in all the shops, restaurants and people, a mixture of old and new worlds. Everyone sits on these plastic chairs half the size of ours. Ended up a modern coffee shop on the waterfront and chilled for an hour with two peach ice tea lattes. Later at my back alley pocket hotel, I blacked out for an hour or so before experiencing another motorbike ride to buy a new headset. Huy drove, I leaned with the curves. He translated and I bought. With everything taken care of, I walked
a local seafood restaurant recommended by Huy. Shrimp four inches long sautéed in garlic and butter. Try shelling and eating them with chopsticks. The rice/veggies and two beers was perfect with the monster garlic shrimp. Back at the hotel, I met more of Huy’s family, friended him on Facebook, took pictures and learned more about how his father and aunt had used their land to build a new hotel. Central to town and only 250,000 Dong, brand new building, a real find. Several people are spending up to six months there? $300/month, I could do this! Tomorrow I am heading south on flat terrain.
Thursday, March 21, 2019
The climb from Hell
Right on schedule, 6:45, I left Hue. Rush hour starts early, shear madness as a million motorbikes weaved around each other, going left, going right, I held my ground on the shoulder. The pollution was one large yellow haze. How fast can I get out of here. Four hours later and two tunnels I turned off for the mountain bypass. The longest tunnel in Southeast Asia forbids bicycled. Just over forty-five miles ridden, it was pushing one hundred degrees with an accompanying high humidity. Running on empty, I pulled over after about two miles. A Vietnamese couple on a motorbike going down hill pulled over next to me. After a good time with them and some lunch, I started to climb again. The energy wasn’t there and I had a long way to climb. Pushing the bike for a while, I pulled over to eat another orange and down some honey. No question, I was bonking and need to wait for the honey, orange and a liter water to kick in. It didn’t. Pushing, pedaling and pulling over and over again. The temperature and humidity were beating me up. My legs were shaky but I had to make it to the top. Finally, I saw the concession stands and tour buses. A person at the first stand beckoned me over. I saw the ice cream freezer and pulled out two mango popsicles. A guy working there helped me park my bike. I sat down in an exhausted daze. The third popsicle brought me to life. I have never sweated so much; I was drenched. The ride had to continue to reach Da Dang. Down the other side of the mountain was exhilarating. With over fifty miles on the odometer, I felt like stopping at the first hotel I came across. Off in the distance as I parallel the beach and water, I saw a skyline of high rises appear. Modern impressive architecture kept me moving. Finding s coffee shop was next where I could find a hotel. After a dish of coconut ice cream, I dialed in the hotel location and as usual the GPS was beyond aggravation. Google should be broken up. Maybe some tough competition will force them to come up with an app that works.
After slowly zeroing on the hotel, I found it down an alley. Hidden away, 250,000 Dong, $12.50, a great find. Given the 62.50 miles and one of the most miserable climbs I have ever made, I have decided to stay two nights. A big town, a lot going on and I plan on seeing some of it.
After slowly zeroing on the hotel, I found it down an alley. Hidden away, 250,000 Dong, $12.50, a great find. Given the 62.50 miles and one of the most miserable climbs I have ever made, I have decided to stay two nights. A big town, a lot going on and I plan on seeing some of it.
Hue is a vibrant city not to be missed
A day off isn’t really a day off. Arrived at the Citadel around
7:30. My god is this historic palace huge. The American war devastated it but
the Vietnamese and the world heritage foundation has brought much of it back to its former glory though much remains to be done. It’s origins go back to 1802. I drifted from building to building within this huge fortress wall. Despite the heat and humidity I spent over three hours absorbing more than I could even hope to retain. Even finding my way out of the place took about thirty minutes. Once outside, I realized my bike was about kilometer away. A bicycle rickshaw guy insisted on taking me for a “free” ride but upon my arrival, his tune changed. White North American tourists are targets. I laughed at the guy when he wanted 500,000 Dong. Almost walking off and telling him to kiss my gritty, we settled on 100,000, still a rip-off.
Next stop, an ATM for more Dong. The transaction was declined several times. Terrific! A little concerned, I resorted to getting help from a bank. Vietcombank worked things out. Vietnam just hasn’t embraced the credit card yet. And, I won’t forget my debit card.
I met a French guy having lunch across the ally from my hotel. We agreed to meet for dinner. In the interim, I found my way over to a shopping area, bought a Vietnamese flag and three red T shirts with a large yellow star on the front, the national flag. Returning hot and sweaty, I packed for my ride to Da Nang. An early morning start was essential given the heat and humidity. Later as scheduled Bertrand, his young Vietnamese woman friend (a nurse) and I went to a local restaurant of her choosing. My chopstick skills aren’t as good I thought. After she left for work, Bertrand and I went down to the waterfront. You would never think this was a developing country. The place was vibrant and upscale, an amazing place. We hoofed back to the hotel and had a nightcap beer. Now for the 5:45 am alarm.
7:30. My god is this historic palace huge. The American war devastated it but
the Vietnamese and the world heritage foundation has brought much of it back to its former glory though much remains to be done. It’s origins go back to 1802. I drifted from building to building within this huge fortress wall. Despite the heat and humidity I spent over three hours absorbing more than I could even hope to retain. Even finding my way out of the place took about thirty minutes. Once outside, I realized my bike was about kilometer away. A bicycle rickshaw guy insisted on taking me for a “free” ride but upon my arrival, his tune changed. White North American tourists are targets. I laughed at the guy when he wanted 500,000 Dong. Almost walking off and telling him to kiss my gritty, we settled on 100,000, still a rip-off.
Next stop, an ATM for more Dong. The transaction was declined several times. Terrific! A little concerned, I resorted to getting help from a bank. Vietcombank worked things out. Vietnam just hasn’t embraced the credit card yet. And, I won’t forget my debit card.
I met a French guy having lunch across the ally from my hotel. We agreed to meet for dinner. In the interim, I found my way over to a shopping area, bought a Vietnamese flag and three red T shirts with a large yellow star on the front, the national flag. Returning hot and sweaty, I packed for my ride to Da Nang. An early morning start was essential given the heat and humidity. Later as scheduled Bertrand, his young Vietnamese woman friend (a nurse) and I went to a local restaurant of her choosing. My chopstick skills aren’t as good I thought. After she left for work, Bertrand and I went down to the waterfront. You would never think this was a developing country. The place was vibrant and upscale, an amazing place. We hoofed back to the hotel and had a nightcap beer. Now for the 5:45 am alarm.
Tuesday, March 19, 2019
Forty-four miles to Hue, 95 degrees by 10:00
The flight home has been pushed back to April 16. Now the pressure is off and I can make my way down to Saigon without feeling the pressure of a deadline. Forty-four miles in four hours with the heat was ninety-three degrees by 10:00. As a rode into town, I began seeing an ancient wall down each small alley. Turning towards the center of town, this huge ancient wall parallel me for at least a kilometer. Crossing a bridge into the center of Hue brought me into city’s hustle and bustle. Stopping at coffee shop, I surfed the web and found an affordable hotel around the corner. A young Canadian couple sitting next me said they were getting a deal at a hotel for sixty dollars a day. I hated to burst their bubble saying I was paying twelve to thirteen dollar a day. Praise Dan Potter for having brought me to the water. Had I gone the uninformed route, I might have suffered the same fate ss dd this couple and so many others. My tolerance to rough it out is in part due to my adventuresome natural and not having a female companion to rein me in. There are benefit to being single.
After settling in, doing some laundry in the sink, I ventured into town for a look see. A few beers, sautéed shrimp and fried rice at corner restaurant in the epicenter of traffic chaos finished off the day. Tomorrow starts early so I can beat the hoards and heat to the citadel and other city sites.
After settling in, doing some laundry in the sink, I ventured into town for a look see. A few beers, sautéed shrimp and fried rice at corner restaurant in the epicenter of traffic chaos finished off the day. Tomorrow starts early so I can beat the hoards and heat to the citadel and other city sites.
Monday, March 18, 2019
A hot tough day on the road
Nothing unusual about my exit from Dong Hoi headed south. The sun came out about ten miles down the road without a cloud in the sky. No blue above on account of the pollution, really weird. The road became rolling hills through the dunes of the shoreline, almost desert like. Time to put on the sunscreen and head sweat band; the salty sweat was already stinging my eyes. The road kept rolling along without a soul around; even the traffic was sparse. The temperature continued to rise and there was no shade anywhere. Mile after mile in ninety-five degree heat, pouring down the water, I finally came upon a large lake captured on by the sand dunes. Two lake side hotels tempted me but my compulsive goal orient self forbids from stopping for the day, only thirty miles on the odometer. With the temperature taking its toll and the sweat pouring off me, I found a convenience store, Vietnamese style. After putting down two juice, four small yogurts and some chocolate cookies, I braved the heat. Prior to leaving four eleven year old boys stopped out of curiosity. For twenty miles one tried his English out on me, referring to his school notes, a fun time.
Out into the heat, mile after mile, a mild headwind picked up and I was becoming more uncomfortable by the mile. Fifty miles was my minimum distance but when would that mile arrive? Over a hill a small city appeared and perhaps a hotel. I passed two dives despite my misery, later to learn that the hotels required another ten kilometers of pedaling. Finally, Dong Ha arrived. I stopped at the first respectable hotel (nhe nigh). Caged birds everywhere as the owner met at open hotel front. There is a god, fifty-seven miles felt like ninety. Scrubbed the riding clothes in the sink, drank a few juices out of the room refrigerator, showered in luke warm water (I didn’t care), took a nap and headed out for dinner. The owner know exactly what I was looking for she I decended the stairs and directed me across a crazy main boulevard to local restaurant. This ten year old boy, at the restaurant, at the request of his grandmother asked what I wanted in pretty good English and served it up in ten minutes, smart kid.
Tomorrow, I am on the road early even though it is only a forty-two mile down to Hue. Then for a day off, 660 miles to go to reach HCM/Saigon.
Out into the heat, mile after mile, a mild headwind picked up and I was becoming more uncomfortable by the mile. Fifty miles was my minimum distance but when would that mile arrive? Over a hill a small city appeared and perhaps a hotel. I passed two dives despite my misery, later to learn that the hotels required another ten kilometers of pedaling. Finally, Dong Ha arrived. I stopped at the first respectable hotel (nhe nigh). Caged birds everywhere as the owner met at open hotel front. There is a god, fifty-seven miles felt like ninety. Scrubbed the riding clothes in the sink, drank a few juices out of the room refrigerator, showered in luke warm water (I didn’t care), took a nap and headed out for dinner. The owner know exactly what I was looking for she I decended the stairs and directed me across a crazy main boulevard to local restaurant. This ten year old boy, at the restaurant, at the request of his grandmother asked what I wanted in pretty good English and served it up in ten minutes, smart kid.
Tomorrow, I am on the road early even though it is only a forty-two mile down to Hue. Then for a day off, 660 miles to go to reach HCM/Saigon.
Sunday, March 17, 2019
Good day, easy day.
Ky Anh to Dong Hoi, 59 miles. Actually I saw the surf as Route1 paralleled the water. I rolled into town which at first appeared a nothing place which turned out to be huge place. So many times I bicycle into the outskirts of a town and think I am in a nowhere place where there are no hotels. With the exception of one town which only had one hotel, ever other place has had plenty. Getting directions from an intelligent guy led me to the train station where a hotel was adjacent to it. My fifth floor corner room gave me an excellent view of the city. In the distance, I could see the high price spread resort hotels. I will stay with the $15 accommodation. And for the first time, I saw some white folks like myself backpacking out of the train station. And I got hustled by two Vietnamese woman. Hey, the GIs left forty-six years ago. Well anyways meeting anyone bicycling in road, other than the Belgian I hung with for all of ten minutes prior to my flat, has eluded me. The millennials take buses and trains and everyone else is on some tour of some sort. Neither group will never really see the country. Am I the only one out here with real adventure in my blood? So much for the American pioneer spirit.
Mileage signs have start showing up saying it is 1250K HCM, that is about seven hundred and fifty miles to Ho Chi Ming/Saigon. Given that I have about fifteen days to cover this turf, I need to push back my flight about one week. Life is brief, the added expense is worth it. Same thing happened when I circling Ireland and there was no regret. Life in New London can wait.
Mileage signs have start showing up saying it is 1250K HCM, that is about seven hundred and fifty miles to Ho Chi Ming/Saigon. Given that I have about fifteen days to cover this turf, I need to push back my flight about one week. Life is brief, the added expense is worth it. Same thing happened when I circling Ireland and there was no regret. Life in New London can wait.
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