Even with wifi, the reception has been louzy. This area is remote and one step away from total wilderness. Yesterday Greg Wilson and I had an easy 75 mile cruise from Grangeville to the Lowell. We bordered the roaring Clearwater river all day. The river races along over rocks and anything in its way. The mountains and the river Make up a stunning panoramic vistas, seemingly endless. Greg Wilson and I road along absorbing the beauty of place. Upon reaching Lowell, all of twenty-three inhabitants, Greg, having to make Denver in a week, decided to hitchhike to get further along. The local cafe fueled me up for the next 61 mile where there were no stores or anything except a few national park camp sites. I had to make sure to carry enough food and water given that this stretch of road had no stores. Rather than stake out a tent on my own..you know: bears, mountain Lions and wolves... I found a site populated with rafters. Prior to arriving at this campsite, I topped off my water bottles at an historic ranger station, my last chance thirty miles.
After setting up in a quiet spot above and away from the weekend warriors, I braved the artic water of the Clearwater River for a clean up. A few seconds immersed in the water, while being careful not to be swept down the river, was all I could handle of the water. I changed into some civilian cloths and settled in to read a few pages from "The Heart is a Lonely hunter". More trucks, vans and cars arrived ratcheting up the tempo of the party not far from me. Up from the party came the organizer of the weekend with a cold beer for me. Skyler made me feel welcome. Later two installments of delicious barbecued food arrived with another cold brew. Even when I was shrink wrapped into my bivy sak, the food kept arriving. The hospitality out here is much different than in the east. People seem more relaxed, friendlier and willing to extend a hearty welcome to outsiders. About the bivy sak, it is a nightmare to use. The designer didn't get it right. It is too small and drips of condensation. It needs a fly in a big way. I finally used it as a cover for my sleeping bag as a way to liberate myself from its confining space.The new tent is awaiting me in Missoula. As for the sak, it is going on eBay for anyone uninformed enough to buy it.
At six hundred hours, I sprang to life, got my act together and hit the asphalt for 40 miles of gradual climbing. My tooch(sp) was soar and everything else numb when I cruised into Powell. The heat had taken its toll on me. With my w ater and food almost gone, my stomach was screaming for lunch. I settle in at the Lochsa lodge for a decadent lunch avec desert. The place was tastefully laid out with steep wooded forests surrounding it. Alas a place with wifi, I was able to reconnect with the outside world. Before heading out, I will stock up on food and water, wait for the heat to go down and make an attempt to reach Lolo pass. Tomorrow, Missoula and at least a day to rest up, see the city and suck down some good IPAs. 1,000 miles behind me!
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