So much for the Empire state trail

  Rolled out of Lock 9 at 8:03 and as advertised the “trail for experience riders” reared its ugly face. Walked two hills within the first hour and began a series of long climbs on slick secondary roads followed by long high speed descents.  Farm land for miles with only two towns in between. For the second time I came across a huge prison with twenty foot walls out in the open with nothing around it. One was federal penitentiary and the other a New York state Prison.  The latter had a huge gothic building in the center which at first I though was a giant cathedral but was really a jail dorm. Kind of creeped me out so I passed on taking a photo. I pushed on through the hills and heat with little shade.  I consumed well over a gallon of water, some gator aid followed by lemon aid.  I am still thirsty.  As I rolled into Port Henry, Bulwagga Bay camp resort was on my right.  A typical semi permanent RV site but with a nice view of lake Champlain. After setting up camp I rode to a local hamburger stand and had a modestly decent dinner.  In the process I communicated with Rick Peyser, a friend and New Hampton classmate, who was planning on picking me up in Burlington after my ferry ride from Port Kent.  Rick informed  me that this ferry was discontinued. The State of New York had not revised its map and related information.  (God damn computer has decided to print everything in bold and I can’t reset it.  Whatever happened to KISS?). The good news is that tomorrow I will need to ride only twenty miles to Essex instead of forty to Fort Kent.  Given that the Empire trail from Fort Ann is all secondary highway and not at all what I envisioned, I will be crossing over to route 15 in Vermont and riding from east of Burlington to Canada, a much more scenic ride. So once off the ferry Rick and I will go to our fifty-fifth school reunion. I have already shipped a box of clothes for the event.

Albany to Lock 9, 56 miles

   I left the comfort of the Holiday Inn Express, snagged a quick breakfast at a nearby cafe and was rolling on a trail by 9:10.  A combination of roads and trails with scenic vistas over three and half hours brought me to Schuylerville.  My legs were hurting the last hour probably because I hadn’t drunk enough water, a fault of many us bikers.  Being Memorial Day everything but local grocery store was closed.  With lunch in hand I parked myself at closed Restaurant where the tables and chairs were left outside. After an hour of R&R I gently continued my ride being careful not to stress the legs.  Upon arriving Fort Charles I stopped to ask a gentleman working on his yard if I could set up camp at one of the Champlain canal locks.  I had done so on the Erie Canal.   Good fortune had it that he worked at lock seven as head of maintenance.  He loaded me up with a large bottle of ice cold water and called his boss to see if I could camp  at Lock nine. Six miles ahead on tow paths and dirt roads I arrived with a feeling of relief. Boiling hot water from the bubbler mixed with tap water allowed me a water bottle shower out of sight down a dirt path off to the side of the canal. There is nothing like being buck naked in the woods scrubbing off a days ride of dirt and swear.  After the fisher men and their families left for the day I set up camp while fighting off the numerous bugs. Dinner consisted of Limberger cheese, canned devil ham, french bread and an apple, actually quite good.  With ninety-six miles to Port Kent and hilly terrain ahead I need to do at least fifty miles tomorrow.  Plenty of water, slow  and steady will get me there. Now for a good nights sleep under the stars.

When the going gets tough the tough get going

   Basically I survived the evening; piled on everything I could to stay warm.  My creativity kicked in resulting in a somewhat a decent nights sleep.  Stopped off at Deli near the park and had a super sized breakfast to last me through the day plus a hefty sandwich and mega cookie for the road. Meanwhile I was able to almost completely charge my phone.  A good ride with a few road sections. Once in Kingston the trail stopped and my quest to find Dick’s Sporting goods began. Route 9 was a hell hole and the temperature was pushing eighty.  A lot of sidewalks and ballsy street riding got to Dick’s.  $67 later I had a sleeping bag.  Getting back on the route was an effort; route 9 to 201, a major highway with a large shoulder, brought me to the two mile Kingston-Rhinescliff bridge.  With the pedestrian path gated off I tried to bum a ride as the traffic creeped by me in the blazing sun.  No takers, empty pick ups included. New Yorkers are a distrusting lot. Taking another tack I went to the administration building, walking behind it a lady spotted me and told me she would open the gate. A two mile walk with a panoramic view coupled by the blazing sun got me to the other side.  No trails since entering Kingston but once over the bridge I turned to a beautiful reasonably flat road lined with beautiful country home.  Duchess county appears to be an upscale place. About an hour later I rolled into Tivoli, a yupped up little town.   The center of town had a nice inn but like yesterday, it was booked. No warmshowers, campsites or motels.  Apparently, there are several big league colleges having their graduations. In fact part of my ride included a stretch through Bard College which in the midst of graduation ceremonies. So once again I am setting up camp in a local park as far out of site as possible.  The park facilities had hot water and a big enough bathroom to allow me  a decent scrub down and shave. I still haven’t found a place buy a cord to charge my iphone so I am shutting the phone down for the night.

 

Second day, fifty plus miles to poughkeepsie

      Saving me from the hills in getting back to trail Peter gave me lift.   8:38 I was rolling north. Only one diversion but the ride was up and down three degrees and no cars other than the intersections. Upon reaching Poughkeepsie the hassle of finding a place for the night began. Memorial day up here is a big deal which means no vacancies anywhere.  Throughout dinner at a nice restaurant I was totally preoccupied with finding a place.  No such luck, no campsites, no warmshowers, no airbnbs within striking distance.  After dinner I rode across this huge walking bridge spanning the Hudson River, very impressive along the spectacular views. On the other side, I checked out a few Indian owned low budget motels and even they were booked. Out of desperation I went to the Highland police and fire station and pleaded my case.  The fire station was volunteer manned and closed. The police solved the dilemma.  A few blocks away was a local park where I could find a secluded spot to set up camp.  The police would notify those on duty that I was there.  No shower other than a brief rinse off but at least I had a place to crash.  Another unpleasant surprise awaited me.  Upon setting up camp, I realized I had forgot to pack my sleeping bag.  Are you kidding me?!!! Smooth move Shakespeare!!  With all the planning and I forget such an important item.  At least I never unpacked my sleeping bag liner so with my goose down jacket, pants and several items for warmth I should make it through the night in reasonable comfort. Final the frost on the cake was my new apple phone cord does not fit into my battery.  Apple is always changing its charging  plugs to screw with the public, forcing us all to buy new cables. A real gotcha! So today’s ride was uneventful with many nice vistas but now must gopher for a new charging cable and maybe a new sleeping bag.  Ever ride has its challenges:

Made it out of Mahattan

  When the train was fifteen minutes from Penn station I sprung to action reattaching the front wheel and loading on the bags.  NewYork was easy riding getting from the station to The Hudson Valley greenway.  Reasonably narrow road west on 33rd, over to 34th and onto the trail. Very safe greenway other than the pedal assist bikes, a.k.a. motor bikes which where flying along at 20-25 mph.  Who s fooling who? There are bicycles and there are motor bikes but this “pedal assist” bicycle is total B.S.  Other than the motor bikes and a stiff breeze for several miles, the flat terrain was wonderful.  A few wrong turns and a bit of street riding made for a bit of frustration. Standard operating procedure when on a bike.  A decent break for lunch around 2:30 rejuvenated  me.  I arrived at my Warmshowers host, Peter Moran in Ossining around 5:00.   Nothing like a home cooked meal and a warm shower. As both of us are cyclists we hit it off from the get go.  Forty-two miles is a good first day but the body needs a good rest.  

Off to New Hampton School and Quebec City

    Enough of the anxiety, as is the case with every trip.  Breaking out of my comfort zone is rough on the psyche.  I am riding the new Empire route north from Manhattan to the Canadian border then on to Quebec City.  On the way I will divert to New Hampton School for my 55th class reunion.  Rick Peyser a classmate will give me a lift from Burlington east to New Hampton, New Hampshire. God bless my good health and may I have many more rides.